KERIO VIEW







Tot is the small administrative and
commercial centre of Endo, the
most northerly of the locations of
Marakwet district. Endo is an
oasis in the semi arid valley. It is
served by 3 rivers: the brown,
slow-moving, silt-laden Kerio to
the east, the fast moving and
crystal-clear Embobut which
more or less passes through the
middle of Tot town and the
relatively small Embomon, which
differs in character according to
season and lies to the south.
It is the Embobut which gives Tot
life. It's fast-flowing waters,
cascading down the lower slopes
of the Cherangani hills, are
diverted into a number of
irrigation channels and then,
through an extensive and managed
system of furrows, spread out
over the fertile lands of Endo to
nurture crops.
The irrigation system is ancient
and it's origins uncertain, though
sometimes ascribed to an extinct
(or assimilated) people called the
"Sirikwa". Whatever the origins, it
is certain that the system has been
progressively repaired and
improved up to modern times by
the Marakwet people who are the
present inhabitants of Tot and its
environs, and indeed of most of
the Cherangani Hills.
The most successful and lucrative
crops are vegetables, bananas and
other fruits which are transported
out of the area (sometimes with
some difficulty) for sale. Mangoes
are particularly successful and
new improved varieties have been
established in recent years.
In the Tot area the powerful combination
of water, fertile soil and high temperature
produces a flourishing vegetation. This
attracts a wide range of animals and
birds. Migratory and wide-ranging
species are particularly attracted during
the dry season when the rest of the Kerio
Valley is parched. Unfortunately, human
inhabitants don't want to share their good
fortune with the animals, particularly the
elephants and other large herbivores,
which they kill, or (in a 'best of the
worst' scenario) drive away.
Traditionally, the Marakwet people
build their huts on the steep, stony
hillside (which area they refer to
as "lagam") and leave the valley
floor for cultivation.
This makes a lot of sense because
the hillsides offer cool breezes, a
much reduced population of
mosquitoes, and the ability to
observe approaching enemies
from afar. Strangely, this habit is
now changing; the more affluent
residents are preferring to build
modern rectangular homes on the
flat lowlands.



It may be a small isolated location, but it's fertility in a large swathe of hostile dry lands has always ensured Endo will attract visitors ----- particularly those in distress. Joseph Thomson, the first European to traverse Kenya from coast to Lake Victoria is an example. In 1884 he passed through Endo on his return journey. He observed and was impressed by the water furrows of the escarpment and after some "friendly persuasion" agreed to pay the local people "hongo" to have one of these furrows opened to supply his party with the water they so badly needed. Five years later it was the turn of the expedition of Count Teleki and Ludwig von Höhnel. On its return from discovery and exploration of the shores of "Lake Rudolph", the surviving members were exhausted, sick, starving and on the verge of death. Because of a severe two-year drought (1888 /89), the land was bare of edible vegetation and all the pack animals had long since been slaughtered. Luckily Teleki and von Hohnel were guided to Endo --- rather than back to Baringo from where they had prepared and provisioned the year before --- and found a relative abundance of food in the irrigated fields. Unfortunately, they had to plunder it under the force of firearms, because of the refusal of the people to sell their priceless produce.
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Tot and, to the North, the market centre
of Chesegon have always been centres
of trade and inter-tribal dealings; mainly
between Marakwets and Pokots, but
also, to a lesser extent, with Turkanas,
Tugens and Somali traders.
Historically, the vital commodities of
trade were livestock, surplus grain,
tobacco, honey, soda, gourds, cooking
pots, iron blades and ornaments. In
pre-colonial days they were always
traded by barter; this still happens to a
small extent even in present times.