KERIO VIEW
Tot
Tot is the small administrative and
commercial centre of Endo, the
most northerly of the locations of
Marakwet district. Endo is an
oasis in the semi arid valley. It is
served by 3 rivers: the brown,
slow-moving, silt-laden Kerio to
the east, the fast moving and
crystal-clear Embobut which
more or less passes through the
middle of Tot town and the
relatively small Embomon, which
differs in character according to
season and lies to the south.
It is the Embobut which gives Tot
life. It's fast-flowing waters,
cascading down the lower slopes
of the Cherangani hills, are
diverted into a number of
irrigation channels and then,
through an extensive and managed
system of furrows, spread out
over the fertile lands of Endo to
nurture crops.
The irrigation system is ancient
and it's origins uncertain, though
sometimes ascribed to an extinct
(or assimilated) people called the
"Sirikwa". Whatever the origins, it
is certain that the system has been
progressively repaired and
improved up to modern times by
the Marakwet people who are the
present inhabitants of Tot and its
environs, and indeed of most of
the Cherangani Hills.
The most successful and lucrative
crops are vegetables, bananas and
other fruits which are transported
out of the area (sometimes with
some difficulty) for sale. Mangoes
are particularly successful and
new improved varieties have been
established in recent years.
In the Tot area the powerful combination
of water, fertile soil and high temperature
produces a flourishing vegetation. This
attracts a wide range of animals and
birds. Migratory and wide-ranging
species are particularly attracted during
the dry season when the rest of the Kerio
Valley is parched. Unfortunately, human
inhabitants don't want to share their good
fortune with the animals, particularly the
elephants and other large herbivores,
which they kill, or (in a 'best of the
worst' scenario) drive away.
Traditionally, the Marakwet people
build their huts on the steep, stony
hillside (which area they refer to
as
"lagam") and leave the valley
floor for cultivation.
This makes a lot of sense because
the hillsides offer cool breezes, a
much reduced population of
mosquitoes, and the ability to
observe approaching enemies
from afar. Strangely, this habit is
now changing; the more affluent
residents are preferring to build
modern rectangular homes on the
flat lowlands.
It may be a small isolated location, but it's
fertility in a large swathe of hostile dry
lands has always ensured Endo will attract
visitors ----- particularly those in distress.
Joseph Thomson, the first European to
traverse Kenya from coast to Lake
Victoria is an example. In 1884 he passed
through Endo on his return journey. He
observed and was impressed by the water
furrows of the escarpment and after some
"friendly persuasion" agreed to pay the
local people
"hongo" to have one of these
furrows opened to supply his party with
the water they so badly needed.
Five years later it was the turn of the
expedition of Count Teleki and Ludwig
von Höhnel. On its return from discovery
and exploration of  the shores of "Lake
Rudolph", the surviving members were
exhausted, sick, starving and on the verge
of death. Because of a severe two-year
drought (1888 /89), the land was bare of
edible vegetation and all the pack animals
had long since been slaughtered. Luckily
Teleki and von Hohnel were guided to
Endo
--- rather than back to Baringo from
where they had prepared and provisioned
the year before --- and found a relative
abundance of food in the irrigated fields.
Unfortunately, they had to plunder it
under the force of firearms, because of
the refusal of the people to sell their
priceless produce.
Tot and, to the North, the market centre
of Chesegon have always been centres
of trade and inter-tribal dealings; mainly
between Marakwets and Pokots, but
also, to a lesser extent, with Turkanas,
Tugens and Somali traders.
Historically, the vital commodities of
trade were livestock, surplus grain,
tobacco, honey, soda, gourds, cooking
pots, iron blades and ornaments. In
pre-colonial days they were always
traded by barter; this still happens to a
small extent even in present times.